On Friday, May 5, our fourth day in Germany, we left the Mainz-Bingen region behind and took a three hour cruise on the Rhine from Bingen to Koblenz. The weather was still quite dreary and cool, but the views out the window was nevertheless quite scenic—castles, little towns clustered at the shoreline, high cliffs and fields, and other boats cruising on the river. It was very peaceful and relaxing, just what we needed after several very full and exciting days.
We disembarked in Koblenz and walked through that city for an hour or so before taking a train to our next major stop, Cologne or Köln, as it is called in German.
Once we got to the Cologne train station, we realized we had no idea how far our hotel was, so we checked Google Maps on my phone and were delighted to see that our hotel, the Marriott, was just a short few blocks away. Although the Marriott is a large, American-style hotel, we were not very pleased with it. I won’t get into details here, but if anyone is planning a trip to Cologne, check with us first. The best thing about it was its location. We should not have “played it safe” and chosen a known brand. Live and learn.
Nevertheless, we very much enjoyed the two days we had in Cologne. The first night we had dinner at a very chic Italian restaurant, Da Damiano. It wasn’t far from the hotel, but somehow we got a bit twisted around looking for it. But that gave us our first glimpse of the Dom, the huge Gothic cathedral that dominates everything in Cologne. The Dom dwarfs all the churches we’d seen before and even cathedrals we had seen in other cities such as Milan and Paris. It is awesome in the literal sense of the word. And you can see its spires almost anywhere in the city.
The following morning we went to the Ludwig Museum, which is almost right behind the Dom. (The Dom quickly became our point of orientation for anything in the city.) The Ludwig is an extremely well-planned museum with lots of light and open space and a very impressive and enjoyable collection of 20th century art. There were many works by Picasso including a very provocative sculpture of a mother pushing a child in a stroller, a rich collection of Expressionist and Surrealist artists, and a collection of art that had been rescued by a collector during the 1930s when Hitler condemned all modern art as degenerate and corrupt.
But the piece that really took us aback was a lifelike sculpture of a modern-dressed woman staring at art in one of the galleries. Both of us had at first thought it was an actual person and only realized it was a sculpture on a second or third look. It really made us think about what is art and what is real and how we often walk by real people without realizing they are real.
In the afternoon we went on a walking tour of Cologne with Free Walk Cologne (there is no fee, but tips are encouraged early and often). Julian, our tour guide, was fluent in English and very engaging, knowledgeable, and entertaining. We met at the Eigenstein Tur, one of the old Roman gates that still exist in the city, and our group was made up of people from Switzerland, Poland, Ecuador, and Scotland, as well as Philadelphia and California. Julian provided us with some background in Cologne’s long history—it was once a military garrison during the Roman Empire, and a woman from Cologne married the Emperor and made Cologne an important outpost in the empire. Julian claimed that Cologne still had more of an Italian feel to it—more laidback and liberal than most of Germany.
We also learned that one of the reasons Cologne has such a tremendous cathedral is that the remains of the Three Kings are kept there. That made Cologne a pilgrimage destination long ago and thus a wealthy city filled even in early times with constant visitors.
Julian then skipped to modern times and informed us that over 90% of Cologne had been destroyed by Allied bombing in World War II and that the city was rebuilt as cheaply and quickly as possible after the war, leaving it with buildings that are eclectic in style and not very well-planned. People were allowed to build whatever they wanted, including a building that is only two meters wide.
Many immigrants from Greece and Turkey came to Cologne after the war to do this rebuilding as the male population of Cologne had been greatly reduced by wartime casualties. These immigrants stayed, giving Cologne a diversity that was for a long time unusual for Germany. (Now there are many immigrants living in Germany from all over the world.)
We saw a church, St Maria Himmelfahrt, that was bombed during the war and restored afterwards:
Perhaps the most bizarre thing we saw was a Roman wall that was discovered in recent years during excavation for a parking lot near the Dom. The wall was preserved and now can be seen in the middle of a modern parking lot.
There was also a Roman floor mosaic discovered nearby, and that also can be seen today by looking into the window of the city’s archaeological museum.
Our last major stop with Julian was the Dom itself. He explained how it took over 600 years for the cathedral to be completed—with a three hundred year gap when nothing was done. It was started in the 13th century and not completed until the 19th. I’ve already mentioned how awesome the Dom is from the outside—the interior is equally breathtaking. The height of the vaults, the almost delicate feel of the structure, and the stained glass windows are magnificent.
After the tour we had a beer along the Rhine with a few people from the tour and then returned to our hotel before dinner in the Belgian Quarter where we once again had Italian food. That made it our third night in a row eating pasta plus the lunch in Gau-Algesheim—and it wouldn’t stop there. German food just didn’t work for us—too much meat, too little fish. It’s a real challenge for someone who is kosher and lactose intolerant. So we ate mostly Italian food throughout the trip. And it was very good. On the other hand, we also ate a lot of delicious German bread, pastries, and pretzels and drank wonderful German beer. My favorite lunch was a fresh German roll with either a hard-boiled egg or smoked salmon. I learned that salmon in German in Lachs—hence, the Yiddish term “lox.” Believe me, we ate quite well—too well!
Our second day in Cologne focused on its Jewish past and present.
I can’t image a Duomo more impressive than in Milan! Can you go to the top? Jay did in Milan and was amazed by the art work there.
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Milan has a much nicer piazza for its duomo, but Cologne seems MUCH bigger. We did NOT climb to the top! Good for Jay!!
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He took some lovely photos for me to see :). I waited below.
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What a beautiful city – and the cathedrals are breathtaking. I was wondering why you were eating so much Italian food in Germany 🙂
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We also ate a lot of Italian in Central Europe two years ago. And, in fact, in the US! I think somewhere long ago I had ancestors in Italy….
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So glad the weather got better once you arrived in Köln, it shows in your photos.
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The two days in Cologne were quite sunny. Unfortunately, once we left Cologne for the Kassel region, the rain and cold weather returned, as you will see….
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I think one of your callings is most definitely ‘tour guide’ you explain everything so perfectly and your pictures capture your trip beautifully. I feel like I am walking along with you.
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Thanks so much, Sharon! I love writing about my travel experiences because I get a chance to reflect on them and relive them.
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Just reading your recent posting has again brought to my attention how big this world is and how little I know about it. We all should travel and meet different people as much as we can. I think it would benefit all of us. So I hope you don’t mind but I am traveling with you as I read your post. I promise I won’t be in the way.
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I have always found that travel opens my eyes in ways that nothing else can. As you said, meeting different people and hearing their stories and their experiences is so enlightening. So please, travel along with me! I am delighted to have your company!!
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Great picture of the Dom! The upper spires are blackened, as you’ll have noticed. When I first saw the Dom it was completely black. I thought it was made of an imposing black stone, turns out it was just dirty!
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Thank you! Yes, our guide explained about the soot problem. I wish we could see what it looked like before pollution discolored it. Thanks for reading and commenting!
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The Hanson sculpture is amazing. I think the shock it might cause for some people will get them into thinking and rethinking as you describe. I’m curious about her clothes. Were they actual garments or made from the same material as the body?
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Hmmm, I was going to answer quickly and say they were not actual garments. But now I am not so sure. It really threw us for a loop!
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Here’s what I found on Wikipedia: These sculptures, cast from actual people, were made of fiberglass, and painted to make the revealed skin look realistic, with veins and blemishes. Hanson then clothed the figures with garments from second-hand clothing stores and theatrically arranged the action.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duane_Hanson
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Thanks so much Amy. I’m enjoying this virtual tour.
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Besides the atmosphere of flowers and architecture, doesn’t the name Rock of Lorelei sound mysterious?
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Yes, it sure does. And dangerous!
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This is a wonderful tour guide experience to follow through your blog with so much information about the city. Every picture tells a story. I have been to Cologne and admired the beauty of the architecture, it’s refreshing to look at it again.
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Thanks, Shirley—I am glad you are enjoying it.
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Breathtaking is right! Lovely photos and a fabulous trip. Your photo of the Rhine reminds me of a shot near the waterfront in Portland, Oregon. Thanks so much for sharing this great experience, Amy. What was your favorite part (if there could be one)? 🙂
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Thank you! Favorite part—well, there’s more to come on the blog, but even so, my favorite part was being with Wolfgang, Barbel, and Milena. Family trumps all!
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It sure does. Trying to catch up. I’ll be back. 😉
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Beautiful photographs and a great tour via your post.
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Thank you! And thanks for reading.
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This is a great post Amy; informative and interesting. The Big T has been to Cologne several times for work but somehow never in circumstances where I could have gone with him (sigh). He loved the cathedral too, but never took photos — so thank for that!
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Next time tag along! It’s a fun city with lots to see and do.
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Sadly, European travel isn’t as frequent for the Big T now — and airfares from NZ are a lot more than they were from England.
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😦
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Wow! Amy, those cathedrals are breathtaking. I can’t imagine how impressive they must be in person.
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I think I’ve run out of adjectives! Awesome is the best I can come up with because they truly inspire awe.
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I love the 2 meters wide building. Lovely photographs!
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Thanks! I know—there was some story behind it, but the guide spoke so fast that I missed some of the details. It had something to do with defrauding the buyer, but I don’t recall what!
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What gorgeous photos, Amy!
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Such an insightful post, it seems like you had a lot of fun and managed to pack loads of things in when you visited. We went to Cologne last May to see some dear friends so we mostly wandered around. We’ll need to go back and visit all the museums.
https://2weekendwanderers.com/
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It’s a fascinating city. We would love to return and see more. Thanks for reading!
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